Routesetting Deeper Dive: how to set for different ages and sizes

At our gym, our incredible setters are the heartbeat of our climbing experience. They pour their passion and creativity into transforming our walls into vibrant landscapes that are not only fun but also challenging and rewarding for climbers of all levels. They make it look easy, but setting for a variety of ages and body types is no simple feat. Here’s some insight from our head setter, Angus, on how they make the magic happen. How do they set for a variety of climbers who range in both size and skill level?

Setting for Everyone

As setters, we have to keep all ages, sizes, and body types in mind. I personally have been through my USAC Level 1 Setters certification which focuses on setting for youth climbers in a competition setting. In the gym, we have to set for all clients. From kids to adults, most climbs need to be accessible. 

Most climbs that are fun for adults are also gonna be fun for kids. A lot of times, the climbs that might be simple for adults, will be really fun but challenging for kids. The holds are bigger, and the moves are bigger, which is usually what climbers want. To ensure the moves aren't too challenging for kids, we provide footholds that are sturdy enough for them to also use as handholds. Another - easier - solution is to ensure there are plenty of handholds, allowing taller climbers to just skip moves. Kids will naturally develop climbing skills more quickly because they will have to get creative to complete some moves. 

Balancing Grades and Variety Across the Gym

When we reset a wall, I get to figure out what grades are needed to create an even grade spread for the gym. We aim for over 50% of our climbs to be V4 and under. I then coordinate with the setters, and sometimes give them prompts for specific moves that could be new and cool. Our team is very good at not setting the same movement over and over which makes life easier.

After we are done setting all of our climbs, we climb and adjust them. For easier climbs, I often climb like a T-Rex with short legs. If the moves are too big, we shrink them down. On climbs V3+, we can start adding bigger moves, but we don't let every climb have big moves. Our setting team has a variety of heights, which is great, too, so we can test moves with the shorter setters.

Try Out Our Latest Climbs!

Come check out the latest from Angus and the crew! Our walls are updated regularly to keep things fresh and exciting. Feel free to let us know what you think!