NUTRITION FOR CLIMBERS: TIPS FOR PEAK PERFORMANCE

Proper nutrition is essential for climbers looking to maximize their performance on the wall and aid in recovery. To help you achieve peak climbing performance, we consulted staff member Kjell Rasmussen, a passionate climber with a Master of Science in dietetics. Read on to discover some of his key nutrition tips that will ensure you fuel your body, stay properly hydrated, and enhance your recovery for optimal climbing performance. Please note: The information provided in this blog is for general guidance only and is not intended to replace professional medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional or doctor before making any changes to your diet or exercise routine.

The Role of Nutrition in Climbing Performance

All athletes must have the right balance and timing for all macronutrients, including fat, protein, and carbohydrates. They should also make sure to stay properly hydrated before, during, and after exercise. As athletes, we are like nice sports cars, and getting the proper fuel at the right time can greatly impact our performance. Fueling climbers can become complicated because there are so many different styles of climbing, ranging from long days questing up thousands of feet of relatively easy terrain, to hard training sessions in the gym or pulling CRAZY hard on a 5-move boulder problem.

Nutritional Needs for Climbers

In general, all athletes need to have sufficient carbohydrates to provide the energy needed, protein for building and maintaining muscle, and fat for normal body homeostasis and energy during low-intensity exercise.

When it comes to carbs, climbers should have about 45-65% of their daily caloric intake come from carbs. Carbs are especially important within 4 hours before exercise to provide adequate energy, and anytime after exercise to refuel by replacing glycogen stores. Within 1-4 hours before exercise, climbers should have 1-4 g of carbs per kg body weight. Within 1 hour, the amount is based on athlete preference but should contain about 25-30 g of carbs. During exercise lasting greater than 1 hour, athletes should have about 30-60 g of carbs per hour.

Protein requirements will vary greatly based on style and type of climbing and training, but I would say most climbers should strive to get about 1.2-1.8 grams of protein per kilogram body mass. Protein should be spaced out throughout the day at least every 3-4 hours. Protein intake shouldn't exceed 40 grams in one sitting, as our bodies are unable to utilize protein fast enough to make anything over about 40 grams useful, and the excess will just go to waste.

Fat should make up about 20-35% of our daily caloric intake. Try to prioritize unsaturated fats and avoid heavily processed foods high in trans fats. Healthy fats can be found abundantly in nuts, seeds, lean meats, fish, and plant oils.

Crucial Micronutrients for Climbers

As for micronutrients, as long as climbers are eating a variety of fruits and vegetables, and eating a well-balanced diet, they should not have to worry too much about these. However, my own personal theory, which has no scientific evidence to back it up, is that a diet that includes adequate collagen and Vitamin C (which helps in collagen formation) may lead to stronger finger tendons and reduce the risk of injury.

Snack ideas

My personal go-to snacks include crackers and cheese, nuts, seeds, granola bars, fruit, and jerky. Really this is based on climber experience and what they tolerate, but pre-snacks should always include some carbs that are low in fiber, fat, and maybe protein if it is not tolerated well. Foods high in fiber, fat, and protein are digested slowly and may cause stress on the gut during exercise.

Hydration

Staying hydrated is important for all athletes to maintain cardiovascular output, regulate body temperature, and maintain performance. To hydrate before exercise, athletes should drink 5-7 mL per kg of body weight 4 hours prior to exercise. For me, weighing 70 kg/154 lbs, that would be 350-490 mL, or about 1/3 - 1/2 a liter of water. During exercise, most people lose 1-2 L of water per hour of exercise. Athletes should try to drink to replace lost water weight during exercise at a rate of 16 oz of water for every pound lost. So if an athlete weighs 2 lbs less after exercise, they should drink about 32 oz of water during that exercise. If replacing after exercise, they should drink 20-24 oz of water for every pound lost.

Recovery Nutrition

When it comes to recovery, both carbs and protein are key. Athletes should try to have a snack or meal containing both carbs and protein within 2 hours following exercise for best muscle and energy recovery. After exercise, carbs high in fiber and fat are good to consume. Protein will help with returning nitrogen balance into the positive for muscle synthesis after breakdown, which occurs during exercise. Carbs will help replace glycogen stores used during exercise. Studies have shown that eating carbs after exercise leads to less muscle fatigue and muscle soreness in the days after exercise.

Supplements

The supplement world is wide and not well regulated. Whenever considering buying any supplements, climbers should look at the label to make sure it has been third-party tested. Supplement distributors are not required by law to test the actual contents of their products, so realistically they could contain something totally different than what they might claim. Having a third-party-tested label means that the product has gone through rigorous testing to make sure that what they claim is in there, is really there.

As for supplements that may provide benefits, here’s a list:

• Caffeine has been tested and results indicate that athletes who use caffeine experience feeling delayed fatigue during exercise. Having 3-6 mg of caffeine per kg body weight has been shown to be safe. Take 1 hour before exercise for best results.

• Creatine can help with short-term power production (good for pulling hard when you need to). Creatine should be taken for 5 grams a day for 4 weeks to be effective. Cycling is not recommended.

• Beta-alanine can help delay the feeling of fatigue and soreness by helping form carnosine, which acts as a buffer to lactic acid which builds up in the muscles. Take 4-6 g/day divided into 2 doses. Side effects include tingling sensations (some people kind of like it).

• Nitrates (beetroot juice) help improve blood flow, helping to improve oxygenation of the muscles and exercise efficiency. Take 5-7 mmol 2-3 hours before exercise.

Common Nutrition Mistakes Climbers Make

Climbers are often looking to pull harder, and because it's easier to pull lighter weights, they think they should lose weight in order to get stronger. The reality is if we want to get strong, we shouldn't be losing anything, but rather building. You can't, or at least you shouldn't, try to gain strength by losing important body mass. Many climbers are afraid of eating too much and getting fat. Instead, climbers should try eating small but more frequent meals throughout the day. Eat something every 3-4 hours, don't skip meals, make sure to bring snacks to the gym or crag. Again, our bodies are delicate sports cars and we need constant and consistent fuel (nourishment). We can't do that by starving ourselves until our body starts breaking itself down for the fuel it needs.

In conclusion: Maintaining proper nutrition is crucial for climbers seeking to elevate their performance and expedite recovery. By incorporating these tips, climbers can optimize their nutrition, hydration, and recovery, enhancing their overall climbing performance.