GUIDE TO CLIMBING AT THE 2024 OLYMPICS
We are eager to watch some of the world's top climbers at the Paris 2024 Olympics! This will be sport climbing's second appearance in the Olympics, following its debut at the Tokyo 2020 Games, making it a new addition to the Olympic program.
Paris 2024 will showcase a revamped event schedule and points system, and anticipation is high. Climbing has gained immense popularity in recent years, and people worldwide are looking forward to what is sure to be a thrilling competition between these top-notch athletes. Here's everything you need to know about climbing at the 2024 Olympics!
Qualification Process
Qualification started last year at the IFSC Climbing World Championships, taking place in Bern Switzerland in August. Ten highest-ranked climbers were awarded spots there– the top three medalists for boulder and lead, and the champion and runner-up for speed climbing, for women and men. The remainder of the quota was allotted during the continental qualification tournaments (Africa, the Americas, Asia, Europe, and Oceania) last year. The final qualification opportunities were the three Olympic Qualifier Series events held between March and June 2024 in Shanghai and Budapest.
profiles of Top competitors
Here are our staff’s top picks for climbers to watch!
Events and Scoring
Olympic sport climbing is split into three formats: speed, boulder and lead climbing. In the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, all three formats were combined into one medal event for each gender. Points were calculated by multiplying each athlete's position in the three formats, with the athlete with the lowest total winning.
However, for the Paris 2024 Olympics, the speed event will be separated, while boulder and lead combine to create one medal event. A new system will calculate the total score from the lead and boulder phases, with the athlete garnering the most points winning. So we will see four medal events - men's and women's speed climbing and men's and women's boulder and lead.
Boulder and lead: An athlete can earn a maximum of 200 points.
In the boulder event, athletes will scale 4.5m walls without ropes, attempting to complete four problems in the shortest amount of time and with the fewest attempts. The maximum points for the boulder phase are 100; each of the four problems is worth up to 25.
Athletes earn 5 points for reaching the first zone, 10 for the second, and the full 25 for the top.
A tenth of a point (0.1) is deducted for each faltered attempt to reach the next scoring position.
In the lead event, competitors climb a 15m wall with overhang, attempting to reach and clip the top within six minutes. Athletes have six minutes to look at the wall before climbing begins. The maximum points for the lead phase are 100.
An athlete receives points for the final 40 moves of a route.
Counting from the top, the last 10 moves earn 4 points each, the previous 10 moves earn 3 each, the previous 10 moves earn 2 each, and the previous 10 moves earn 1 point each.
Moves below the final 40 do not collect any points.
Speed climbing: In speed climbing, athletes race against one another side by side using the current standard single-elimination competition speed climbing format. The speed climbing wall is 15 meters with a five degree overhang. The placement of holds is always the same, unlike boulder and lead climbing, so competitors rely on muscle memory from practice and must continually find ways to shorten their times.
Competitors must complete their ascent in under six seconds for men and under seven seconds for women.
In the earlier rounds, climbers race against the clock and those with the fastest times continue on, whereas in the finals, climbers race head-to-head against each other to determine the winner.
Schedule of Events
The sport climbing events will occur August 5-10, 2024. They are taking place at Le Bourget Climbing venue, which was built for this purpose.
Monday August 5
01:00 Men's Boulder & Lead, Semifinal Boulder
04:00 Women's Speed, Qualification - Seeding
04:40 Women's Speed, Qualification Elimination
Tuesday August 6
01:00 Women's Boulder & Lead, Semi Boulder
04:00 Men's Speed, Qualification - Seeding
04:40 Men's Speed, Qualification - Elimination
Wednesday August 7
01:00 Men's Boulder & Lead, Semifinal - Lead
03:28 Women's Speed, Quarterfinals
03:46 Women's Speed, Semifinals
03:55 Women's Speed, Final
Thursday August 8
01:00 Women's Boulder & Lead, Semifinal Lead
03:28 Men's Speed, Quarterfinals
03:46 Men's Speed, Semifinals
03:55 Men's Speed, Final
Friday August 9
01:15 Men's Boulder & Lead, Final - Boulder
03:28 Men's Boulder & Lead, Final - Lead
Saturday August 10
01:15 Women's Boulder & Lead, Final - Boulder
03:28 Women's Boulder & Lead, Final - Lead
The addition of sport climbing to the Olympics is a significant milestone for the climbing world, and we are excited to cheer on these amazing climbers. Come join us for a community watch party! We will be gathering to watch the finals on Friday and Saturday. Keep an eye out for more details on our Instagram account!
